Island Peak, 6.189 m
The ascent of Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6,189 m) is one of the most popular high-altitude treks in Nepal. It combines a classic trek with a summit climb that is technically straightforward but physically demanding.
Island Peak (Imja Tse) lies between the massive south face of Lhotse and Ama Dablam. The mountain was named Island Peak by Eric Shipton because the summit juts out like an island from the surrounding ice desert. In 1983, it was renamed Imja Tse, though the name Island Peak continued to be used colloquially. The first ascent took place in 1956 by a Swiss mountaineering team as training for the ascent of Mount Everest and Lhotse.
The route is generally rated WS (slightly difficult) in alpine terms. The ascent usually takes 3 days.
You need experience using crampons, an ice axe, and a Jumar ascender for fixed ropes. The biggest challenge is an approximately 150-meter-high ice slope with a gradient of up to 55°, which is climbed with the aid of fixed ropes and leads directly to the steep summit ridge.
Island Peak - Tag 1
Start: Dingboche (4,336 m)
Destination: Island Peak Base Camp (5,072 m) Elevation gain: 700 m
Distance: 8 km, Duration: 4–5 hours
You reach Dingboche from Lukla via the Everest Base Camp Trek. The trail from Dingboche climbs gently through a wide valley with a mountain stream. Yaks graze here. Further up the valley, the trail follows the ridge of a glacial moraine. To the left, Lhotse towers over the valley; to the right, Ama Dablam; and ahead, the 6,189-meter-high Island Peak becomes increasingly visible. Finally, the trail continues alongside the moraine of the Imja Glacial Lake. The lake behind it can only be imagined. Rocks, sand, stones, and the sparse grass—everything here shimmers as if covered in silver. A short climb from base camp up to the adjacent moraine offers a view of the vast glacial lake.
Island Peak - Tag 2
Start: Base Camp (5,070 m)
Destination: High Camp (5,550 m)
Elevation gain: 450 m
Distance: 2 km, Duration: 2 hours
Including a stop at High Camp is a tactically wise decision that can significantly increase the chances of success on summit day. While many groups set out directly from base camp, spending the night at high camp shortens the extremely strenuous summit day by about 2–3 hours and nearly 500 meters of elevation gain.
It’s not a long day (about 2–3 hours), which helps you conserve energy. The high camp itself is practically clinging to the slope between the rocks. The trail first winds through a few switchbacks and then transitions into rough boulder terrain. Sure-footedness is essential here, as you’ll need to climb over large boulders.
Island Peak - Tag 3
Start: Island Peak High Camp (5,550 m)
Destination: Island Peak (6,189 m)
Elevation gain: 650 m
Distance: 3 km, Duration: including descent to Base Camp: 6–8 hours.
Start around 2 a.m. In the darkness of the night, you’ll climb over rock steps and steep gullies (easy climbing, some fixed ropes) until you reach Crampon Point. Here, you’ll put on your crampons. After crossing the glacier, which has several crevasses, you’ll reach an ice slope with a gradient of up to 55 degrees, which is ascended using a fixed rope and a jumar. A narrow, exposed ridge leads to the highest point.
The return to High Camp involves rappelling down the wall and a careful descent. After a short rest at Base Camp, the descent is usually direct to Chhukung (4,730 m) to retur
